FRAY LUIS ALTAMIRAS

FRAY LUIS ALTAMIRAS

Through a piece of news sent by a co-worker, I discovered this renowned Aragonese Franciscan friar and considered the Ferran Adrià of his time. This Franciscan friar and cook was born in the 18th century, in La Almunia de Doña Godina, in the province of Zaragoza. And precisely at the end of 2021, the first Juan Altamiras gastronomic days were held in Aragon, where this illustrious character became known, with the participation of several chefs and waiting for the second ones.

Juan Altamiras wrote the cookbook New art of cooking, taken from the school of economic experience (1745). The book that he calls Obrilla or Cooking Primer, was published 5 times while he lived. It contains 205 pages and is divided into chapters devoted mainly to meat, poultry (poultry) and fish, but he also treats eggs and “yerbas”, as he calls vegetables, with great care. I would like to emphasize the humility and affection for the profession with which he writes and formulates the recipes. He does it from the point of view of the “Director” (as he calls the head chef) who teaches the beginner step by step so as not to make mistakes in the kitchen trade.

It begins with a prologue giving some modest but accurate advice in the form of numbered notes on the cook’s cleanliness, order in the office (kitchen), control of cooking and preparation time, the cook’s humility, the distribution of the amount per person and about everything, remembering at all times, the abandonment of the superfluous expense of each dish as a friar that he was. It is also interesting to see how the use of certain material for a single use is taken into account so as not to transfer flavors.
How to care for kitchen material is another important point. Tempering the pan so that the food is well prepared is simply cleaning it, heating it and putting a little bacon inside it. The exterior is cleaned with vinegar. Today the iron only passes a little oil.
We must take into account the time of which we speak. At that time the kitchen material used to be made of wood and iron, it was cooked with fire, wood or brass to serve and eat and the food was cooled with ice taken from the mountains. The material was forever, scarce, highly valued and it was necessary to take great care to take care of it with the few existing resources.

The way in which the recipes are written is in the form of a short paragraph, without points, all in a row, naming some amount and with a very rich vocabulary of the time.

To cite some examples, he calls gentle fire the soft fire, bowls to the dishes or diners, compound to a bite, compose to elaborate and unleash how to mix or dilute. It uses bacon as cooking fat (oil in Lent), a wide variety of products, some spices (basically cinnamon, cloves, pepper and bay leaf) and a wide variety of dishes and cooking techniques. The hard-boiled egg and soaked bread is very common to thicken and accompany dishes. The measures, rarely used, are in pounds, quarts, and ounces.

And in countless dishes they mix sweet and savory elements at the same time. Desserts as part of the culinary dictionary or final part of the meal do not exist. But he does make sweet dishes and also very sweet ones that denote a taste for sugar. For example, for roasted milk, use 1 pound of sugar for 2 quarts of milk and a dozen eggs. That is, 450 g of sugar for 2.3 l of milk and 1 dozen eggs. Today about 300-350 g are used.

The ingredients are very similar to the ones we have now, but use some very special ones such as camusas, endangered apples, or ground criadillas, less renowned truffles used like potatoes, elements that show the elapsed time. At the end of the book he gives some recipes on how to heal a cut or burn due to the frequent occurrence of such events in the kitchen.

After leafing through his book and seeing the recipe book, I realized that certain dishes from medieval times, I had already made in their vegetarian version in a similar way, such as stuffed cucumbers. On the other hand, I have seen some that I have carried out, such as roasted milk (below photo) or “quaxada” cabbage that I want to try.

I leave you the link where you can download the book to read. Recommended, it is very interesting. Also the conversion of measurements of the time in case you want to try making roasted milk. A very sweet flan easy to make. If so, I hope you say how the experiment went and post a photo. Take advantage!

1 pound 450 g
1 ounce 28,350 g
1 quart 1.15 l

AMPURDÁN LENTEN FRITTERS

AMPURDÁN LENTEN FRITTERS

These typical Girona fritters are the fritters that bring back the most memories and the ones I have eaten the most in my life. In my house, it was a tradition for all the brothers to get together for a day and prepare the dough from which we managed to prepare 10 kg of flour at once just for ourselves. We are 7 brothers and we love them. We had fritters for weeks and we ate them for breakfast, snacks, desserts, at all hours. The way to help the fritter pass better was and is, with a glass of very cold or hot fresh milk, that depends on taste.

During that long day we had a studied staging that was repeated every year on the same dates. There were the technicians who needed the exact amounts, the precise ones who remembered the mistakes of the previous year, the innovators who added information to improve, the kneaders who needed muscle and resistance, the creative ones who molded “different” shapes of the donut to be fried, the impatient who ate when the fritters came out burning from the pan, the charlatans who explained memories while they put the aniseed with the bay leaves, the delivery men who made bags to store and the esqueadores who only ate and did not collaborate. We provided ourselves with the best baker’s flour, we made a second fermentation and each one assigned a task to create a great line of perfect work. Without a doubt, we formed a good squad. As a result of all these punctual and Sunday gastronomic encounters, and the great cook and gourmet that is my mother, we are all very good cooks. The only one that I have dedicated myself to professionally is me.

The dough of this fritter is made up of a large number of ingredients that give it a perfect and soft touch of aniseed. It is a fermented dough so you have to knead and let it rise. Once fermented (covered in a warm place such as a stove or radiator is perfect if it is cold for 2-3 hours), it is shaped into a circular shape with a hole, oiling your hands each time. They are placed on trays to rest again and make a second fermentation for approximately 1 hour. They are fried in sunflower oil with a couple of lemon peels to flavor the oil and when they are golden on both sides they are placed on absorbent kitchen paper. They are sprinkled with sweet aniseed with the help of some laurel branches and passed through sugar while they are still hot.

The shape of the donut is circular and with a hole. If they are chubby it is much better because they do not dry out so much. They are fritters that last a long time and even if they harden, they are still just as good. They are arranged and are perfect later if they are placed in the microwave for a few seconds for the modern ones, in a wood-burning stove for the classic ones and for the cookers, on the grill. Also if they freeze they are perfect. Of course, you have to freeze them just made and cold so that they retain their moisture and initial aroma.

My mother’s original recipe is as follows. Next to it, I have put the changes that can be made in a recipe to adapt it to your type of diet. But I think it is important that the changes are known or understood by seeing where they come from. Normally the same quantities that are specified to the side are correct. I hope you like it and that you have a great afternoon in company to make or eat them.

 

Recipe

fritter dough

250 g all-purpose flour ____½ wholemeal flour, or other flours
25 g sugar _____________ brown sugar, coconut,
1 egg ________________chickpea flour (1 tbsp)
60 ml milk _____________soya vegetable smoothie
5 ml anise liqueur
5 m muscatel ___________must
5ml orange juice
5 g matalaúva
5g coriander
1 pinch salt
15 g pork fat_______ Olive oil, coconut fat
8 g paris yeast
½ lemon zest
½ orange zest

Frying

1 l sunflower oil
1 lemon peel
anise liqueur
100g sugar

Elaboration

 

  • Sift the flour.
    Prepare a volcano with the flour, salt, sugar, herbs and citrus zest. Mix dry.
    Heat a little milk (about 30ºC) to dilute the oil or fat and the paris yeast.
    We incorporate all the liquid ingredients into the volcano, juice, liquor and the milk mixture. Mix from the center and gradually add more flour from the sides.
    Knead until the mixture is smooth and homogeneous.
    Carry out a first fermentation of 2 h.
    Shape into a fritter and place on trays for a second fermentation of 30′.
    Fry the fritters in abundant oil at 180ºC.
    Finish by sprinkling a little sugar on top of the fritters.
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY

INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY

@beautyimage_stockphoto

March 8 is International Women’s Day, previously called the Working Woman’s Day. The name change was made in 1975 and it was called that because until recently the woman could not work, own anything, open a checking account, run a marathon, get divorced or get an ID. This happened in our country in the years 1975-1985. Only 4 decades have passed and in a few years we have come a long way. The female vote was legal in 1976, recognized in the 1931 Constitution and repealed by Franco until the Spanish Transition.

The origin of the date are several, all of them extremely important. In March 1911 there was a fire at the Triangle Waist Co shirt-making factory in New York. The 129 workers and 17 male workers died, leaving another 70 injured. They were young immigrants between the ages of 48 and 14 and they were locked up for long hours so that there would be no robberies for a paltry salary. As a result of this tragic event, the labor legislation began to change. In 1914, it is the first time that women from all over Europe hold rallies to show solidarity in favor of peace and against war. In 1917, during World War I, Russian women and mothers, with spontaneous demonstrations in the face of hunger and desolation, achieved important changes. March 8 was the day the Soviet Union decided to proclaim International Women’s Day after achieving voting, abortion and divorce. Later, different countries were added to the same date.

This date may seem absurd today, but beyond what our generation has achieved, we must remember the reason for this triumph. We women can vote and be one more in society thanks to the effort and death of many of those who literally fought to have the rights we have today. For that reason alone, we must give it the importance it deserves.

Great women in history still appear in which her work has been ignored or transferred to a man so that he receives recognition. Marie Curie would not have received the Nobel Prize if her husband had not stood up. The committee did not recognize her work because she is a woman. This is repeated in fields such as literature or medicine.

Also, the knowledge we have is based on the male figure. A clear example is the symptoms of a heart attack. In men, they occur with oppression in the diaphragm area and intense pain in the left half of the chest that radiates to the arm, while in women cold sweating, nausea, or pain in the back, jaw, or jaw are much more common. and neck. This means that devices designed for cardiac support are more effective in men than in women.

It should be noted that there is still much to do. There are still countries that are not allowed to go alone, work, drive, study or show their face. And every time a woman dies at the hands of a partner, we are reminded of how vulnerable we are. Beyond femicide, other deep-rooted problems are female genital mutilation, harassment, sexual exploitation, abuse, stereotypes, etc. There is no social class in this area, and for this reason alone we must support each other as a society, men and women .

In the hospitality industry, the path has not been easy either. Women have been the cooks in the homes but professionally they are less recognized. We already know that the role of mother has come to the fore as one of the causes, but what man has done has been to make his name prevail thanks to the laws and the social support of his peers. As an important fact, more than half of the active population dedicated to the hospitality industry in Spain is female, 52%, and only 40% of the hospitality establishments are run by women, of which 10% have a Michelin star.

Personally, I can give my own vision because I have been a businesswoman and chef of my own restaurant. The path was not easy at all, from the perspective of constantly having to prove that I was the owner of the business (year 1993). -Excuse me, could I speak to the boss please? Yes, tell me it’s me.- Then his face changed and he tensed up to speak. At that moment I realized that most men are only comfortable talking to men. Fortunately this has been changing although there is still work to be done. Being commanded by women is still an option that is not liked in “some business areas.”

But beyond the private company where you put your roof, outside there, when you are an employee, everything changes, the rules are different. There is always a boss who tends to prefer men to collaborate, discern, discuss or speak. Which leads us to a constant invisibility. María José San Román, in charge of the Monastrell restaurant, with a Michelin star in Alicante, denounces that “invisibility is entrenched and invisible talent discourages future generations. It is a global problem whose change we can lead from Spain.

I join her in her opinion as a FP cooking teacher where only 30% of the student body and faculty are female. This means that this group must be made visible and supported, especially in making them see that their point of view is important and different: the way of working, expressing themselves or thinking.

As young cooks who are leaving their mark, we can luckily name many who have set up their own restaurant to make their way. This is the case of Lucía Freitas with @atafonarestaurante, María Gomez with @magogarestaurante or Lucía Grávalos @mentica_gastronómico. Although others already made their way years ago, such as Fina Puigdevall from @lescols_finapuigdevall or Carme Ruscalleda, already retired. Internationally we have Dominique Creen with 3 Michelin stars @atelier.creen. This brief summary of chefs that is growing more and more shows us a significant change in the hospitality industry that is highly anticipated.

To all of them and to the rest of the women,

Happy Women’s Day!

VALENTINE’S DAY

VALENTINE’S DAY

Valentine’s Day is the perfect excuse to make some simple healthy cookies like these. Affection is transmitted with the hands. Roll up your sleeves, put your hands in the dough and I assure you that you will receive very sweet kisses.

INTEGRAL CRANBERRY AND WALNUTS BISCUITS

  • 75 g flour (sifted)
  • 75 g wholemeal flour
  • 75 g butter at room temperature
  • 75 g white brown sugar
  • 4 g chemical yeast
  • 20 g oat milk
  • 1 egg
  • lemon zest
  • 40 g chopped cranberries
  • 20 g chopped walnuts
  • beaten egg to paint
  • sugar and beetroot powder to decorate (optional)

Make a volcano with the dry elements: flour and yeast. Make a hole in the center and put the wet elements: butter, sugar, milk, egg and zest. First mix the wet ones with each other and then with the flour mixture. Add the cranberries and walnuts. Make a homogeneous mixture without kneading. If it is done by hand, it must be done very quickly so as not to transmit the heat from these to the dough with so much butter. It is always better on a machine for this reason.

Put the dough on kitchen paper and wrap it to be able to stretch it up to 1 cm in order to let it rest in the fridge for 1 hour to cool. Once this time has elapsed, stretch the dough with a little flour and cut with a pasta cutter. Put on a baking tray and brush with beaten egg mixed with a little water to make a thinner layer. Decorate and bake about 18 min at 180ºC. Let cool and store in a hermetically closed jar.

Happy Valentines Day!

recycle food

recycle food

RECYCLE FOOD

 

Being sustainable in our home is not just shopping without plastics by carrying our own bag. Throwing away food is something so common that we don’t give it importance and it is one of the best ways we have to fight climate change individually.

According to a study by the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food, in 2021, 1,363 kg of food (35 kg per person) were thrown away. Of these, most were not used and a small part were prepared foods. The most wasted foods are vegetables, fruits, vegetables, fresh bread and milk.

The Government launched in 2021 a law that obliges the sector to sell “ugly or imperfect products” and to donate food. The law also requires separating food about to expire and lowering its price. So saving by buying these products is possible.

Every time we throw food away, it is not only the food itself, but we are throwing away the water to make the plant grow, the energy used for its conservation and transport, the time of the people who have dedicated an effort in the whole process and the money that YOU have spent in the purchase of this product. And I would say more, you eat another product instead of the one that has spoiled, so you consume and pay twice what you need.

In our homes we have a moral obligation to reduce this waste and we must do it day by day and be more humble when preparing our menus. Make small changes. Buy just enough for a few days and keep what you don’t eat in the fridge to reuse it in some way. Here’s an idea for a plate to reuse food from the day before, in this case, Saturday’s popcorn.

 

 

 

POPCORN PANCAKES with YOGURT SAUCE AND CARROT AND APPLE SALAD.

for 1 person

1 egg
10g popcorn
10 g cornmeal
10 g corn starch
10 g canned corn
10 g EVOO
chopped parsley
salt, pepper and nutmeg
grated cheese (optional)

Separate the white from the yolk. Work the yolk with the EVOO, the parsley and the seasonings. Mix it with the whipped white, add the sifted flour, the drained corn and crushed with a fork and finally the popcorn.

Heat a frying pan, add a little oil and cook on the grill with the help of a spoon to make 2 pancakes. When it is curdled and detached, turn until it is golden.

Accompany with carrot 🥕, grated apple 🍏 and goji berries. And a yogurt sauce with salt, lemon juice 🍋 and AOVE.

See post on my Instagram: pilar_montojo